One of the Hill Country’s most visionary tasting rooms is sounding its last call. Senza Maeso, a proprietary spirit made from the South American cape gooseberry, will close its San Marcos tasting room on May 31 after less than three years.
“This is not where we wanted to be,” wrote the owners in a frank Instagram post. “We’re busier than we’ve ever been, more people are finding the spirit, and there is so much about this place that feels like it’s working. But the truth is, it took a lot to get here. More time, more energy, and a lot more money than we expected. We’ve reached the point where we simply can’t keep operating.”
Twins Ryan and Jay Gitman opened the Senza Maeso tasting room at 1090 FM 32 near Wimberley in February 2024. The bar was a showcase for their unique signature product, launched in 2023. Named for the Spanish-Italian translation of "without master,” the spirit created its own category, using damiana- and epazote-aged gooseberry — a sweeter relative of tomatillos — to create an herbaceous sipper with notes of apricot and citrus.
The cocktails featured a unique gooseberry spirit.Photos courtesy of Likeness Studio.
The interior design by 71 Collective was just as unconventional. The New York City-based firm combined Art Deco geometry with vintage science instruments to create an environment that looked less like a Hill Country watering hole and more like a set piece from Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1973 cult classic The Holy Mountain.
The outré design (plus a regular schedule of food trucks and entertainment) made the place no mere brand extension. The place also served other spirits and made a killer espresso martini, and practically oozed Marfa cool. The bar staff, meanwhile, couldn’t be more personable.
While admitting the closing is difficult, the Gitmans didn’t express any regret about the experiment.
“From the beginning, Senza was built to be a haven for curious people,” wrote the brothers. “For creatives, weirdos, bartenders, regulars, wanderers, and anyone who wanted something a little different. And somehow, that part worked. The room became what we hoped it would be.”
