HOLD THE LINE
Experimental no-phones dessert bar unplugs at San Antonio's Pearl
Nicosi's desserts will focus on unexpected flavors.
As if the Sunday scaries weren’t enough of a bummer, now most of us stomach a weekly reminder that we spend more time fretting about the latest JoJo Siwa misstep than meaningfully engaging with the people in our life. FOMO is real, even if what we’re missing is hardly worth consideration. Truly savoring an evening has become a rare treat.
Though it might not make much of a dent in guest’s screen time reports, a new San Antonio restaurant is challenging expectations of how we enjoy food in the information age. Nicosi, the latest project at Pearl’s ambitious Pullman Market, opens on June 26 with a policy that bucks against the Instagrammification of America’s third places — no phones are allowed.
Inspired by Japanese omakases, the desert bar asks guests to focus on the full sensory experience. Each quarter, Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group partner Tavel Bristol Joseph and chef de cuisine Karla Espinosa will craft a new prix fixe menu meant to redefine diner’s expectations of desserts. No photos or details will be revealed prior to the release of each season’s cycle.
“It has been a dream of mine since I was 17 to be in a space that celebrates desserts and the artistry behind it,” explains Bristol-Joseph via a release. “Nicosi will be a dessert bar unlike any of its kind as we explore and push the boundaries on the thresholds of acid, umami, bitter and sweet in desserts.”
The unconventional approach intends to provoke conversation, both among the guests and with the chefs. The dining room, designed by Baldridge Architects and internal partner Rand Egbert, uses theatrical flourishes like an oversized brass lamp and velvet curtains to envelop diners, and draw focus on the innovative fare.
With only 20 spots available per seating, Nicosi is not a bargain affair. Tabs will run $100 with nonalcoholic pairings and $120 with an added kick. Online reservations are now available for 5:30 pm and 8 pm slots, Wednesdays through Sundays.
