SPARKLE MOTION
Ambitious culinary market bedazzles San Antonio's Pearl with 4 new restaurants
For the past decade or so, the story of San Antonio's culinary scene has been one of fits and starts. Each year, a promising batch of new concepts garner national attention while disappointing closures dampen the mood. But that cycle may soon be broken as an ambitious new project declares Alamo City a world-class food destination.
After months of anticipation, Austin-based Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group will debut its most visionary project on April 23. The sprawling Pullman Market complex at Pearl is a gastronomic wonderland centered around a specialty grocer stocked by more than 150 Texas suppliers. A whole-animal butcher, sourdough bakery, and five quick-service restaurants complete what is being billed as the Southwest's largest culinary market.
Pullman Market continues Pearl's tradition of adaptive reuse. Interior firm Joel Mozersky Design and architectural offices Clayton Korte and Burton Baldridge reworked the former Samuels Glass Company building at 221 Newell Ave., preserving the original shell. The new elements were planned to highlight the existing patina and the stunning display of food.
"Collaboration with bakers, butchers, baristas, chefs, and fishmongers was at the heart of the design process," said Clayton Korte partner Sam Manning via a release. "Each artisan had a hand in shaping the space, with the owner's chefs, department managers and bar managers working closely with the design team to display, front and center, the process each artisan undergoes for their craft."
The artisans form the heart of the market, which will carry everything from house tortillas to wine and beer. A retail selection augments the edible goods with home goods, beauty products, toys, and chef's supplies, sure to be manna for home cooks.
Those less inclined to whip up a recipe will find a grab-and-go meal case and five to-go concepts selling ceviche, tacos, sandwiches, ice cream, and more. Guests can also eat at one of the four onsite restaurants, half of which will open with the market.
As the name teases, Fife & Farrow specializes in wood-fired sourdough pizza and heritage grain pasta in a family friendly environment. Mezquite hones in on Sonoran cuisine, adding a mezcal bar simply named Mezcaleria.
The opening dates for the other two eateries will be announced in the upcoming weeks. Isidore promises an elegant dining experience with a rotating seasonal menu, while dessert bar Nicosi experiments with a small dining room and a no-phone policy.
"There's something for everyone at Pullman Market," sums up Emmer & Rye partner Kevin Fink. "You can grab a quick bite, stay awhile at one of our restaurants, discover fresh local ingredients or grab something pre-made to make mealtime easy – knowing it's all been sourced with a commitment to quality and sustainability."