COFFEE TALK
Middle Eastern coffee chain debuts first San Antonio shop
Haraz offers intriguing sips like this saffron latte.
Tired of the same old vanilla lattes? Haraz Coffee House is now bringing its time-honored Yemeni brewing traditions to its first San Antonio coffee shop 8435 Wurzbach Rd. in Medical Center.
Hamzah Nasser, a Yemeni immigrant, built the outpost of the now-national coffee chain in Dearborn, Michigan, in 2021. According to Hour Detroit magazine, he considered owning a gas station before landing on a different kind of fuel inspired by the melting-pot neighborhoods of his Detroit-area youth.
In Yemen, coffee culture takes a slower pace than the grab-and-go rush of the United States. Each brew is an extension of community, frequently served from a single pot (or dallah). The host serves the drink in a steady, unbroken stream as a ceremonial gesture of hospitality.
The coffee grown in Yemen’s mountainous Jabal Haraz region may also taste unfamiliar to many American palates. Although sometimes brewed whole-bean, it is just as valued for its husk. The chaff is brewed with spices like cardamom or whole ginger, then mixed with milk for a lighter beverage more akin to black tea.
Still, Haraz has made a few concessions for the Starbucks generation, who were raised on sweeter drinks. Common espresso drinks like caramel macchiatos and matcha lattes are on the menu, along with a flat white-style foam. But most of the offerings are served in traditional pots meant for four to six guests.
Guests lounging in the airy white and gold space can pair the brews with bakery sweets like sabaya (or bint al-sahn) — a traditional Yemeni layered pastry with black cumin seeds — and Turkish specialties like Istanbul cheesecake — a Basque-style cheesecake with a distinctive caramelized top.
The Wurzbach location was the first of two locations in the pipeline to open. A second outpost at 10907 Culebra Rd. in Alamo Ranch is now hiring in anticipation of its April debut.
