On a roll
It used to be that San Antonio sushi lovers got a raw deal. Fans would either have to suck it up and head to Austin or accept that basic California rolls were the best around. Today, the city is practically swimming with great choices for maki, nigiri, and sashimi. Dive right in to these six top spots. We assure you the water is fine.
Geronimo Lopez, the chef behind this acclaimed eatery, sets himself apart with his takes on Nikkei, one of the world’s original fusion cuisines combining Japanese and Peruvian foodways. The selection is small, but hardly lacking. Choose sashimi, nigiri, or a pair of rolls. We like the Dragon — airy tempura shrimp with avocado, rocoto pepper, and kanikama salad made with imitation crab and shredded vegetables.
Godai Sushi Bar & Restaurant
Bring a pair of reading glasses to this casual favorite. The menu is a novella with page after page of rolls, appetizers, and specials ranging from grouper collars to truffled mac 'n' cheese with lump crab. Of course quantity doesn’t always mean quality, but Godai deliver there, too. Everything from clams to squid is achingly fresh.
Koi Kawa Japanese Restaurant
One of the sunniest places in San Antonio, this Boardwalk on Broadway staple is stunning during the day, when guests can gaze at the gently lapping banks of the river. The lunch service also happens to boast some of the city’s best deals. For less than $16, enjoy one of the sushi bento boxed served with soup, salad, and two gyoza dumplings. Big eaters will appreciate the 14-piece chef’s choice while those wanting something light can nibble on one of the roll combos.
Featuring bold anime-inspired murals from local artist Holden William Dunlop, this poppy sushi bar is as eclectic as the Southtown neighborhood it calls home. Opt for a deluxe mini sashimi platter, with cuts of yellowtail, tuna, and salmon; five pieces of nigiri; and any roll. For that choice, go for the Bossgirl, named after the English translation of Sukeban. With its unexpected use of goat cheese and strawberries, its a dynamite pairing with a Champagne flight.
In a silver and black town, its only natural that almost every sushi slinger would have a roll named for the Spurs. Sushihana takes it to the rack with crunchy shrimp, asparagus, avocado, roe, snow crab, and eel sauce wrapped in very Instagrammable marbled seaweed paper. It can’t bring back Tim Duncan, but it’s the next best thing.
Yummi Sushi & Grill
The newest edition to the Yummi family on West Bitters Road covers all the bases for traditionalists, serving eel, escolar, and egg omelets in both nigiri and sashimi forms. Still, the eatery is best when it goes a little wild. Rolls like the Texan with spicy tuna and chipotle mayo; Monterrey Cheese with shrimp and asparagus; and Red Bull with soft shell crab, spicy tuna, rib eye, and a sauce from a certain energy drink may give sushi sticklers pause. Everyone else will be thankful the chefs have an opportunity to play.