As far as spirits go, mezcal is only slightly less controversial than pineapple on pizza, maligned because it's anything but neutral. It can be smoky and earthy or floral and herby; the more than 40 subspecies of agave create almost infinite notes. You either love it or you hate it, but these seven San Antonio bars may finally help you find middle ground.

Mezcal Comida & Cantina
Mezcal curious? Consider this underrated newcomer near Castle Hills a first gateway. The approachable menu lures guests in with cantaritos, margaritas, and a juicy concoction made with dragon fruit and lime. And if you want to keep it neat, the pours are all under $20. Either way, enjoy the atmosphere behind the bar, which is dripping in bougainvillea.

(a)mar
The owners of this brand-new Pearl spot — Clarece and Carlos Clavijo — love agave spirits so much, they made their own brand. Before dinner, follow a row of cacti to a speakeasy-esque bar, where curated expressions help you work up an appetite. Once seated, keep the party going with mezcal riffs on classics like espresso martinis or Old Fashioneds. Or get a little weird. The From Earth to Mars cocktail mixes tequila’s smoky cousin with Carpano vermouth and Piedmontese Cardamaro and a little maraschino cherry liqueur to cut the bitter bomb.

A row of wooden copitas sit behind the bar at El Ultimo.Photo courtesy of El Ultimo

Mexico Ceaty
Yes, it’s essentially a food court in downtown’s bustling Shops at Rivercenter, but chef Jason Dady’s vision was hardly Panda Express. The complex’s agave bar, El Ultimo, is incredibly intimate, illuminated by the red glow of a watchful lobo and scattered veladoras. The experience is all about discovery. Stroll past the conchas at Dulce Aroma and sip from rare bottles while deciding whether you really need those Foot Locker Nikes.

The Mezcaleria at Mezquite
The centerpiece of Pullman Market looks like it organically sprung out of the desert, built around a brutalist back bar that appears to have been carved out of rock. The mezcalería serves three flights, offered with jicama, orange, and sal del día, but revelers don’t have to content themselves with sipping. The Desert Bird takes flight with espadín mezcal, pineapple, lime, and Campari, a tiki Jungle Bird migrating through Oaxaca.

Mezcal cocktails have their own menu at CuisheCuishe/ Instagram

One of San Antonio’s biggest mezcal boosters, this Stone Oak standby says it has the largest agave spirits collection in Texas. We don’t know if that’s true, but the menu does go on page after page, and it’s not afraid to offer two ounces of Real Minero for $46. More budget-minded imbibers can take advantage of the weekday happy hour (noon-6 pm) or enjoy half-off pours of mezcal, neat, every Thursday during Noches de Agave.

Naranja Tequila & Mezcal Bar
One of the rare places to enjoy fine mezcal on the River Walk, the chic bar at the Hotel Valencia boasts a Spanish Colonial ambiance, perfect for new couples who are just starting to play hacienda. Get starry eyed with mezcal flights and balanced cocktails like Sol de Oro, made with passion fruit syrup. Then head over to Dorrego’s for a chocolate mousse cake.

The Bar at Mixtli
Mixtli owners Rico Torres and Diego Galicia know their mezcal. After all, they opened the city’s first dedicated mezcal bar — Mezcalería Mixtli — back in 2015. At their Southtown restaurant, the spirit is still respected in creations like Cola de Gallo, with Cynar and allspice dram, and a corn butter-washed smoked Old Fashioned.