in good taste
National restaurant magazine meticulously chooses San Antonio's best rising chefs
Another week in San Antonio, another opportunity to celebrate chefs. But this time, it's insider praise, and trying their specialty dishes may lead to prizes.
Restaurant industry magazine StarChefs has named its 2023 Austin-San Antonio Rising Stars, which will appear in a print issue coming out in December. It promises "recipes, industry trends, business intel, beverage knowledge, new techniques, and a fresh dose of culinary inspiration," and features a frame-worthy Texas-themed cover.
To celebrate, it is also hosting Rising Stars Restaurant Week from December 1-15. Among this year's winners are 23 food and beverage professionals, making up the third class in Austin and San Antonio, and the 84th class nationally. Restaurant Weeks participants who order one of their featured dishes and post on social media may win a $100 gift certificate. There will also be a fan-voted plating competition between award winners.
If this sounds familiar, perhaps it's because CultureMap has a category of the same name in our annual Tastemaker Awards. CultureMap's Rising Star Chefs are usually sous and executive chefs who don't yet own their own restaurant but might soon; for StarChefs, it seems more like a blanket term for chefs who are very active in any stage of their careers. Kareem El-Ghayesh made both lists, but the rest are unique.
To ensure a careful choice, these awards are based less on StarChefs staff's memory of their cooking, but in a series of tastings and interviews with more than 100 professionals. The judges also take characteristics like food philosophy and leadership in the industry into account.
“In both Austin and San Antonio, we saw cities experiencing immense growth—with food and beverage professionals hustling to keep pace, matching the new energy with eagerness and innovation," said StarChefs managing partner Will Blunt in a press release. "And, more importantly, the Central Texas hospitality [industry] seems to be managing to ride the wave of rapid evolution while staying anchored in the community and true to the best version of itself.”
The print issue features cute grackles enjoying a plate of Texas barbecue.starchefs.com
The winners are divided into several categories. The primary category is "Chefs," dominated by Austin chefs: Kareem El-Ghayesh of KG BBQ, Geoff Ellis of Mum Foods Smokehouse and Delicatessen, Rich Reimbolt of Better Half Coffee & Cocktails, Keith Rzepecki of Hestia, and Amanda Turner of Olamaie. San Antonio was represented by a single winner: Emil Oliva of Leche de Tigre.
Arjav Ezekiel and Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel of Birdie’s (in Austin) are frequently included in best-of lists, and this time is no different. The couple was selected as "Game Changers," presented by S.Pellegrino, meaning that their efforts have an innovative twist. Here's what the click-through bio says on the official winners list:
"Their relaxed counter service model, along with the caliber of their wine program — and the execution and hyper-fixation on seasonality in the food program — serves as a bastion for a new way of thinking about elevated service. Tracy and Arjav are able to offer their employees [livable] wages, extensive paid time off, and a number of other benefits due to their commitment to their reimagined business model."
San Antonio turned the tides in the "Restaurateurs" category, presented by Jade Range. All three winners were from San Antonio: Nicola Blaque of The Jerk Shack and Mi Roti; and Andrew Ho and Sean Wen of Curry Boys BBQ, Pinch Boil House, and Wurst Behavior. Individual chefs can't be two places at once, but these powerful players have demonstrated that their ideas will keep contributing to the local scene as they build them out.
"You know, we never really like to call ourselves restaurateurs, or any sort of title, cause we never feel like we deserve that sort of title," wrote Ho and Wen on Instagram in response to the win. "So, instead, we just gonna send a huge shoutout to everyone that comes by and supports our restaurants (@pinchboilhouse, @wurstbehaviortx, @curryboysbbq)! We genuinely appreciate the love we get from y’all. We spend our lives tirelessly thinking about how we can give the community badass, unique experiences and these are the moments that it makes us realize it mayyyy be worth it 🫠😉!"
Both cities shared the spotlight in the "Community" category, presented by Resy. According to the release, it "Recognizes professionals who are deeply connected to the local hospitality community, dedicate their time to community outreach, and are ultimately catalysts for involving members of the culinary community in important initiatives." The award went to Dustin Baker of Roadmap Brewing Co., and Edgar Rico of Nixta Taqueria.
The rest of the categories contained only Austin professionals:
- Concept: Brian Batch and Ryan McElroy of Bird Bird Biscuit
- Pastry Chefs: Derrick Flynn of Este and Suerte; and Casandra Perez-Martinez of Comedor
- Bartender: Erin Ashford of Holiday
- Sommeliers: Alex Wheatley Bell of Aviary Wine & Kitchen; and Rania Zayyat of Bufalina
- Artisans: Ben and Phoebe Hollander of Casper Fermentables; and Will Jaquiss of Meanwhile Brewing Co.
- Mentor (cohort voted): Fiore Tedesco of L'Oca D'Oro.
Even if a restaurant is not on your list to visit, it's worth it to check out the interactive winners list for recipes. Find those and order the 2023 Austin-San Antonio print issue ($5) at starchefs.com.