No one can accuse Jason Dady of resting on his laurels. In a prolific period that saw the busy San Antonio chef open multiple pop-ups at the Rock at La Cantera, revive his Umai Mi concept, and star on the Food Network’s BBQ Brawl, he somehow found time to get Mexico Ceaty — his ambitious food court makeover at downtown’s Shops at Rivercenter — ready to open on Monday, April 20.

If locals are imagining a row of kiosks flanked by plastic booths, a look inside Mexico Ceaty quickly dispels such notions. The 25,000-square-foot concept was designed for discovery, rather than quick bites between shopping hauls. At the center is The Plaza, a central gathering place inspired by Mexico’s many street celebrations.

The area is flanked by puestos, including a tortillería that uses heirloom masa, a cevichería serving seafood in three different styles, taco and Baja burrito stands, and a frutería. The Mercado appeals to out-of-towners with a curated assortment of artisan goods, imported foods, cookbooks, spices, handmade gifts, and emerging Mexican wines.

“Mexico Ceaty has been living in my head for over a decade, shaped by years of traveling through Mexico, eating at markets and plazas, learning from the people and the food,” explains Dady in a release. “We built this place for people to spend time together, to try something new, and stay longer than they planned.”

That lingering will be aided by a quartet of standalone concepts. Tres Arcos leans Tex-Mex, serving sizzling Wagyu fajitas, chiles rellenos, and classic San Antonio puffy tacos beneath a handcrafted pergola guarded by a Catrina. The multi-level Dos Cantinas bar serves cocktails exclusively mixed with freshly squeezed juices.

Conchas at Dulce & Aroma.Photo by Katie James

Photo by Katie James

A Catrina watches over the bar

Chef Stephannie Beyers of Eat Chingon helms Dulce & Aroma, a panadería and café filled with the smells of pan dulce, churros, and café de olla. Naturally, the menu also showcases breakfast tacos like the Joselito with chilaquiles, carne guisada, and a fried egg. The dish is a love letter to Maria’s Cafe on Nogalitos Street, a favorite that Dady calls one of San Antonio’s “small kitchens with a big heart.”

Lastly, Dady built some intrigue into his sprawling complex. El Último is a speakeasy-style agave tasting room specializing in mezcals and aged tequila flights. The release notes that the spot is “intentionally hidden,” so visitors will have to get their bearings before enjoying a Humo & Hechizo, a sipper made with mezcal, absinthe, bitters, grapefruit-cinnamon syrup, and pomegranate molasses.

Mexico Ceaty is Dady’s most colorful concept to date, with massive murals by local artist Colton Valentine and floral installations by David Garcia of Statue of Design. In the thick of the experience, one will hardly notice that there’s an Aéropostale store just steps away.

The beverage program is based on aged tequilas and mezcals.Photo by Katie James

Now that the immersive project is finished, Dady might take a rest — but don’t count on it. For the busy chef and restaurateur, Mexico Ceaty is just part of a day’s work.

"Honestly, it's simpler than it might look from the outside, he says via email. “I trust my team, I value their input and their decisions, because without a great team, a leader is alone. Our culture is built on that trust, and on the belief that a culture of hospitality is vital to all of our success."

Following its April 20 debut, Mexico Ceaty will be open daily from 6 am to as late as 1:30 am, depending on the concept. Reservations for Tres Arcos and Dos Cantinas are available via OpenTable.