Culinary creations
Underground dinners in San Antonio evolve into new series with star chefs
It was a few years ago that Kimberly Suta, a San Antonio food writer and culinary entrepreneur, got into organizing underground dinner clubs.
These unique, multi-course suppers are prepared by a renowned chef and served in an equally unique locale, to a typically invite-only group of diners. Usually, the location — such as someone’s home or an art gallery — is held secret up until show time.
Suta's dinner series is now going monthly and committing to one location, as she partners with local restaurateur and bar owner Steve Mahoney to launch St. Paul Square Dinner Club. The new chef-driven dinner series will be hosted at Blayne's, the bar above Francis Bogside in St. Paul Square — near the Alamodome and the eastern edge of downtown.
The inaugural six-course dinner, beginning 6 pm on June 27, will feature Milpa co-owners Chef Anthony Hernandez and Chef Jesse Kuykendall, known locally as "Chef Kirk."
Suta recalls getting inspired when reading an article about underground dinners being performed by chefs in New York City highlighting cannabis infusions. She says each underground dinner club experience just gets her more excited for the next event.
"I think what makes these dinner clubs special is the level of intimacy and connectivity that the guests have with the chef versus just visiting a restaurant on a regular night,” says Suta. "These are one-night-only menus, and they give the chefs a chance to really create what they what to create and prepare a meal they're proud to share. I think guests just like an opportunity to go to a special event.”
Suta said Mahoney, the owner of such bars and eateries such as Francis Bogside, Blayne’s, Blue Box, and Hanzo, approached her a couple of months ago about starting a dinner club at Blayne’s. Mahoney was already familiar with Suta’s work with underground dinner clubs and her collaborations with numerous chefs and other local culinary talent.
"We’re both thrilled to create a new opportunity to showcase the myriad of talented chefs in San Antonio — some you'll be very familiar with and some which will hopefully be new and exhilarating to our guests,” says Suta.
A news release calls the debut dinner event “Chapter 1.” The June 27 menu will feature the following delicacies, which patrons can enjoy while listening to live music:
- Spinach salad: guava lemon vin, candied chili pecans, roasted corn and honey goat cheese
- Ceviche de Zetas: aguachile rojo with grilled oyster mushrooms, cucumber slaw and tostadas
- Tamal Zacahuil: 15-pound tamal, served family style, made of Guajillo braised pork with mexican crema and picked onions, topped with salsa arbol
- Palate cleanser: Raspado de melon y jengibre
- Halibut with cilantro Romesco, capers, asparagus and fried arugula
- Dessert: Nieve de queso con churros de cajeta
Through Suta’s work as a food writer, she has known Kuykendall for years. Kuykendall, among other things, is executive chef at Ocho, a past champion on the competitive cooking show “Chopped,” and an UNESCO chef ambassador for the city of San Antonio. Both Kuykendall and Hernandez are known for their takes on Mexican fusion cuisine.
"Chef Kirk has also done a couple of underground dinners with me, and I've just always been so impressed with his dedication, passion, and level of organization," says Suta. "I met Chef Anthony through Chef Kirk, but this event will be the first time really working with Chef Anthony and I'm very much looking forward to it."
Suta said she is eager to see how San Antonians greet the St. Paul Square Dinner Club. Each month will showcase different chefs and menus. The club dinner will ideally happen every fourth Thursday at Blayne’s. Currently, the July 25 dinner will feature Chef Ceasar Zepeda, and the August 22 dinner will feature Chef Kaius and Chef Desmond Robinson.
"I think it will be a wonderful opportunity for food enthusiasts to try something different and special. Of course we're starting out with some heavy hitters, but as we build trust with our guests, I'm hoping that we can introduce some more up-and-coming chefs that they're not as familiar with,” says Suta. "San Antonio has a vast wealth of culinary talent, even beyond what I can keep up with, so I'm excited to see how this dinner club evolves."
Tickets to the St. Paul Square Dinner Club ($85 per person) are available at francisbogside.com. Drinks and drink packages will be made available separately on-site.