culinary mastery

Oscars of the food world recognize San Antonio chefs and restaurants with 8 semifinalist nominations

Mixtli gives a stirkingly contemporary twist to ancient Mexican cooking.

Photo courtesy of Mixtli

The James Beard Awards have returned. After a two-year hiatus, the James Beard Foundation revealed its semifinalists for its 2022 Restaurant and Chef Awards.

Considered the Oscars of the food world, the awards recognize outstanding chefs and other culinary professionals in a wide range of categories ranging from Outstanding Chef to Best New Restaurant and a range of media categories. This year will be the first time the foundation has given an award for Best Chef: Texas, which it created after the 2019 awards to recognize the state’s diverse collection of talent.

San Antonio restaurants and bars are well-represented among both the national and regional awards. Overall, the city earned four national nominations and four nominations for Best Chef: Texas.

They are:

Outstanding Restaurant: Mixtli
Outstanding Pastry Chef: Sofia Tejeda, Mixtli
Outstanding Baker: David Cáceres, La Panadería
Outstanding Wine Program: High Street Wine Co.

Best Chef: Texas nominees:

Steve McHugh, Cured
Esaul Ramos Jr., 2M Smokehouse
John Russ, Clementine
Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland, Burnt Bean Co., Seguin

Elsewhere in Texas, Houston earned five national nominations and seven nominations for Best Chef: Texas. Dallas-Fort Worth garnered five national and five Best Chef: Texas nominations. Austin trailed with two national nods, both for Emerging Chef, and two Best Chef: Texas nominees.

Barbecue pitmasters faired well in the Texas category. In addition to Esaul Ramos Jr. (2M Smokehouse in San Antonio), Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland (Burnt Bean Co. in Seguin), Quy Hoang (Blood Bros. BBQ in Houston), and Damien Brockway (Distant Relatives in Austin) all lead barbecue joints that were named to Texas Monthly’s recent 50 best list.

Including pitmasters reflects the foundation’s goal to broaden the types of chefs and restaurants that it considers for its awards. After the foundation canceled its 2020 awards, the New York Timesreported that none of 2020’s Black nominees won their categories. The organization also faced criticism that it nominated people accused of unethical behavior.

After an audit, the foundation overhauled the awards process. Nominees must now provide an alignment statement that demonstrates their support for at least one of the foundation’s stated values of equity, transparency, respect, integrity, community, and passion. In addition, the foundation changed eligibility requirements for voting. Whether these changes are enough to satisfy critics remains to be seen.

The James Beard Foundation will announce the finalists for its restaurant and chef awards as well as the honorees for the Leadership, Lifetime Achievement Award, and Humanitarian of the Year Awards on March 16. Media award finalists will be revealed on April 27. Winners will be awarded in Chicago on June 13.

Mixtli.

Photo courtesy of Mixtli

Mixtli.

chefs bests awards

IN MEMORIAM

Beloved San Antonio Tex-Mex joint fries its last gordita

Photo courtesy of Lala's Gorditas

Lala's Gorditas will shutter December 24.

When Steven Pizzini opened Lala's Gorditas, it seemed like his birthright. Not only was the tiny Southside joint named after his maternal grandmother, but it was built on generational restaurant know-how that dates back to the 30s. After five turbulent years, that legacy is being cut short.

Via Facebook, Pizzini announced he would shutter Lala's after service on December 24. Although the post does not fully explain the reasoning behind the closure, it capped one of the restaurant's most turbulent years.

"We hope everyone will come by and share a laugh or tear and send Lala's off in grand style," Pizzini writes. "On behalf of my staff and myself, it's been an honor and a pleasure to serve you these last five years. You'll see my staff in other great dining places, no doubt, and I plan to enjoy my retirement."

Opened in March 2019, Lala's continued his family's long history in the San Antonio hospitality community. His aunt Ernestine Pizzini Chapa founded Teka Molino in 1938. His father and uncle, Herman and Eddie Pizzini, established Taco Hut in 1958.

The simple menu was aptly time-honored, offering San Antonio favorites like guacamole cups, bean rolls, puffy tacos, and signature gorditas. Pizzini didn't take shortcuts, nixtamalizing corn on site. It was, at first, a formula for success.

Unfortunately, Pizzini faced challenges from the get-go, including a lack of parking and an outdoor dining space. The COVID-19 pandemic hit before he could celebrate his first year. In 2022, he told the San Antonio Current that supply availability and costs were wreaking havoc on his business.

In the past year, the restaurant has twice appealed to the local community for support. The most recent plea, on June 11, admitted many of the restaurant's shortcomings. Despite the struggles, Pizzini expressed no sour grapes.

"On a personal note, I will miss the wonderful community Lala's has created with our authentic food and friendly service," wrote the longtime San Antonio chef. "It's been an extraordinary experience getting to know so many of you and sharing my family's legacy through our traditional Tex-Mex recipes."

tex-mex southside closings

culinary mastery

Oscars of the food world recognize San Antonio chefs and restaurants with 8 semifinalist nominations

Mixtli.

IN MEMORIAM

Beloved San Antonio Tex-Mex joint fries its last gordita

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