Fake Fish, Real Meat
Texas sushi restaurant makes waves with state's first lab-grown salmon

OTOKO is the first and only place in Texas to offer Wildtype's cultivated salmon.
Texas once again finds itself paving the way for a new technology; this time not in a cowboy-hat wearing robot or self-driving car, but in food. Acclaimed Austin omakase restaurant Otoko is now offering cultivated salmon by a company called Wildtype. It's a sushi-grade salmon lab-made — rather than farmed or caught in the sea — from genuine salmon cells.
This makes Otoko the first and only place in Texas to feature this delicious and eco-friendly new protein.
"It's more environmentally friendly, has no parasites, overfishing, or microplastics," says Otoko head sushi chef Bigler Cruz. "We're trying to help educate our guests that other options are available and that we, as a restaurant, are conscious of our impact on the environment."
According to Cruz, this cultivated salmon saku (a cut without skin or bones) tastes like wild salmon, and will be offered as part of Otoko's classic omakase services, prepared fresh nightly. Specifically, the Wildtype salmon is included in the hamachi binchotan (grilled yellowtail) dish, so that "guests can see how we use the salmon side-by-side with another type of fish," says Cruz.
Of course, Wildtype also turned a camera on Otoko's always-engaging executive chef, Yoshi Okai.
At Otoko, there are a few types of experiences guests should know before making an omakase reservation. Below are the options between now and September 30:
- Classic omakase: A 20-course Kyoto-style kaiseki (structured) omakase experience featuring a blend of nigiri and sashimi, alongside a variety of hot and cold Japanese dishes. Available for one to four guests.
- Sushi omakase: A Tokyo-style sushi omakase dinner, only available on Wednesdays, featuring a specially-curated selection of nigiri and sashimi throughout 20 courses. Available for one to six guests.
- Kaiseki-ryori: A 15-course kaiseki omakase experience, available every first Thursday of the month. This is a shortened version of the classic omakase experience with a lower price tag. Available for one to four guests.
The Wildtype salmon won't be replacing the fish used at Otoko; it will just be included in the hamachi binchotan. Though perhaps someday soon, it will hold a larger place on Otoko's menu, and other menus around town.
"As awareness around sustainability and food transparency grows, we’ll definitely see more cultivated options on menus," says Cruz. "It’s just the beginning of a major shift in how we think about seafood and protein."
That shift might not come to San Antonio anytime soon. The Texas legislature recently passed a ban on lab-grown proteins, which prohibits the "manufacture, processing, possession, distribution, offering for sale, or sale of cell-cultured protein." The law goes into effect September 1 and sunsets in 2027.
Otoko is located at the South Congress Hotel at 1603 S. Congress Ave. in Austin.

Andrew Ho holds a copy of the proof.Curry Boys BBQ/ Instagram