SUDDEN SHUTTERS
Beloved Pakistani spot shutters in rocky San Antonio culinary scene
A standard bearer in Pakistani cuisine has joined the depressing roll call of mom-and-pop restaurants folding in San Antonio. After almost two decades in business, Kohinoor Tawa & Grill permanently closed on March 31.
Houston influencer Houstoneatz teased the news in an early March post, paying homage to the restaurant’s importance to Texas Pakistani communities. The owners of Kohinoor made no public announcements at the time, waiting until the final day to confirm the shutter.
“These are the final few hours remaining to enjoy food cooked with love at Kohinoor,” the owners wrote. “We thank you, San Antonio, for treasuring us and giving us your business. We will remember you forever, our precious Kohinerdz!”
Kohinoor opened in 2007, focusing on Southern Asian cuisine. Although San Antonio’s culinary diversity has increased since then, it was still a rare example of Zabihah Halal, Pakistani food.
The representatives did not explain the reasoning behind the move, though Houstoneatz said the owners were retiring. Whatever went behind the decision-making, rising real estate costs, and food inflation have not been kind to independent operators in San Antonio.
News of independent eateries shuttering has become commonplace as the city grapples with its identity. Although a new generation of upscale restaurants is somewhat filling the gap with deeply personal expressions of epicurean heritage, big budgets remain the biggest predictor of success.