IN MEMORIAM
Beloved San Antonio Tex-Mex joint fries its last gordita
Lala's Gorditas will shutter December 24.
When Steven Pizzini opened Lala's Gorditas, it seemed like his birthright. Not only was the tiny Southside joint named after his maternal grandmother, but it was built on generational restaurant know-how that dates back to the 30s. After five turbulent years, that legacy is being cut short.
Via Facebook, Pizzini announced he would shutter Lala's after service on December 24. Although the post does not fully explain the reasoning behind the closure, it capped one of the restaurant's most turbulent years.
"We hope everyone will come by and share a laugh or tear and send Lala's off in grand style," Pizzini writes. "On behalf of my staff and myself, it's been an honor and a pleasure to serve you these last five years. You'll see my staff in other great dining places, no doubt, and I plan to enjoy my retirement."
Opened in March 2019, Lala's continued his family's long history in the San Antonio hospitality community. His aunt Ernestine Pizzini Chapa founded Teka Molino in 1938. His father and uncle, Herman and Eddie Pizzini, established Taco Hut in 1958.
The simple menu was aptly time-honored, offering San Antonio favorites like guacamole cups, bean rolls, puffy tacos, and signature gorditas. Pizzini didn't take shortcuts, nixtamalizing corn on site. It was, at first, a formula for success.
Unfortunately, Pizzini faced challenges from the get-go, including a lack of parking and an outdoor dining space. The COVID-19 pandemic hit before he could celebrate his first year. In 2022, he told the San Antonio Current that supply availability and costs were wreaking havoc on his business.
In the past year, the restaurant has twice appealed to the local community for support. The most recent plea, on June 11, admitted many of the restaurant's shortcomings. Despite the struggles, Pizzini expressed no sour grapes.
"On a personal note, I will miss the wonderful community Lala's has created with our authentic food and friendly service," wrote the longtime San Antonio chef. "It's been an extraordinary experience getting to know so many of you and sharing my family's legacy through our traditional Tex-Mex recipes."
