BEARD BUMMER
James Beard Awards pass over San Antonio restaurants once again
San Antonio's hopes of finally winning a James Beard Award were quashed on June 16 as both Alamo City finalists went home empty-handed. Mixtli was up for Outstanding Hospitality, and Emil Oliva of Leche de Tigre made it to the final voting for Best Chef: Texas.
The James Beard Awards, widely considered the Oscars of the restaurant industry, recognize culinary prowess in a wide range of categories. The James Beard Foundation, the governing body of the awards, also honors excellence in several beverage categories, hospitality, and food writing.
Each year, a three-step process determines the final winner. San Antonio flaunted seven semifinalists in the January round. In addition to the Mixtli team and Oliva, several local chefs got nods in the regional Best Chef: Texas group:
- Leo Davila, Stixs & Stone
- Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin, Best Quality Daughter
- Grey Hwang, Shiro Japanese Bistro
- John Ramos and Jonathan Reyes, Chika
- Alex Sarmiento and Brenda Sarmiento, El Pastor Es Mi Señor
In April, Mixtli and Oliva made the cut to the finalist round. Mixtli has long been a James Beard darling, with nominations stretching back to 2018. This was the first finalist consideration for Oliva and Leche de Tigre — a coup for a restaurant that has barely been open for two years.
The latest Beard snub comes after years of disappointment starting in 2001 when Biga on the Bank's Bruce Auden became the city's first nominee for Best Chef: Southwest. Auden, Andrew Weissman, and Steve McHugh have received multiple hat tips in the category.
Texas professionals did take home four wins during the ceremony at Chicago Lyric Opera. Thomas Bille of Spring's Belly of the Beast won Best Chef: Texas, and Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie's in Austin became the first winner of the new Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service Award.
Two other Texans received special honors. Chad Houser, founder of Cafe Momentum in Dallas, received the Humanitarian of the Year Award, and Houston-based journalist and scholar Toni Tipton-Martin received the Lifetime Achievement Award.