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MEET THE TASTEMAKERS

7 top chefs turning up the heat on San Antonio’s dining scene

Chantal Rice
Aug 3, 2021 | 9:32 am

In a year in which practically every industry came to a screeching halt, restaurateurs and chefs had to get creative, navigating pandemic pauses and supply chain hiccups with aplomb because, after all, everyone still had to eat.

We’re grateful to the Alamo City chefs who kept us in good spirits and even better food during these tough times, and also gave us some food for thought in terms of how our communities can best support each other.

These seven chefs are shining role models for their industry and for the city as a whole, and we’re thrilled to honor them at the annual CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, which highlights the persevering trailblazers of the San Antonio and Austin restaurant and bar scenes.

Learn more about our San Antonio Chef of the Year nominees below, then join us August 5 at Fair Market in Austin for the 2021 Tastemaker Awards, when we’ll announce the deserving winner. Limited tickets remain — get yours now!

Ceasar Zepeda, Sangria on the Burg
If there’s one thing chef Ceasar Zepeda knows, it’s what San Antonians love to eat. From the freshest ceviche to fluffy, buttery biscuits, and a whole lot of sangria, his restaurant concepts always win over even the choosiest of diners. So when he opened his eclectic neighborhood spot, Sangria on the Burg, in 2016, locals in the know flocked to the Oak Hills neighborhood to devour craft sangria and margaritas alongside colorful tacos and perfectly sloppy sliders. With his affable and charismatic disposition and his intrinsic culinary talent, we’re pretty sure that whatever delicious chow he’s dishing out, all of Alamo City will eat it up.

John Russ, Clementine
Yep, it’s true: When celebrated local chef John Russ was a kid growing up in New Orleans, his go-to snack was PB&J. Luckily for the throngs of San Antonio diners who would later swarm his darling neighborhood restaurant, Clementine, his grandmother set him on a more enlightened culinary path, one emphasizing French influence and global flavors. After attending culinary school, Russ brought his cooking expertise to San Antonio, to much praise. He’s bolstered in the biz by his equally talented wife, Elise Russ, an eminent pastry chef in her own right.

Louis Singh, Singhs Vietnamese
From successful food truck to super popular brick-and-mortar eatery, Louis Singh specializes in cooking up what he calls Vietnamese soul food. At Singhs Vietnamese, the menu is loaded with gratifying dishes — “a Vietnamese mother’s recipes told through her Texas son.” From his seasoned shrimp rice and crispy karaage chicken to his “winghs” and what could easily be the most noshable banh mi sandwiches in town (especially the brisket banh mi), Singh is serving up the kind of fare that warrants at least a once-a-week visit, like all good soul food does. And in the meantime, he’s no doubt making his mama proud.

Nicola Blaque, The Jerk Shack, Mi Roti
Universal rule: No jerks allowed — unless, of course, we’re talking about chef Nicola Blaque’s expertly seasoned Jamaican-inspired cuisine. With a mission to elevate and modernize Caribbean food (mission accomplished), Army veteran, Culinary Institute of America grad, and Jamaica native Blaque has been spicing up the San Antonio food scene since opening The Jerk Shack in 2018. Appropriately dubbed “artisan Caribbean cuisine,” The Jerk Shack features a mouthwatering menu of marinated meats (yes, Texas purists, you can get jerk tacos and jerk ribs here) and sharable sides. In 2020, she also opened Caribbean street-food joint Mi Roti, which highlights dishes featuring the humble yet tasty Caribbean flatbread.

PJ Edwards, Meadow
Comforting seasonal fare inspired by Texas and Southern classics become modern delicacies in chef PJ Edwards’ hands. And that makes a lot of sense, considering Edwards started cooking in his youth, spent years honing his craft, and cut his teeth under some of Texas’ most well-regarded chefs. At Meadow, he highlights the farms and ranches that make Texas-sourced ingredients so flavorful, bringing a seasonal and chef-driven approach to Southern classics like pork chops, fried chicken, burgers, and vegetable succotash. As beautiful as his plates are, Edwards never sacrifices flavor, even in seemingly simple dishes. Case in point: His grilled pimento cheese sandwich is superb!

Stefan Bowers, Playland
Why does a classically French-trained chef with years of restaurant experience focus all his creative efforts on making pizza? Because even for well-practiced pizza virtuosos, making the perfect pie can be extremely tricky — even more difficult than frying fish or searing meat, notes chef Stefan Bowers — but he definitely rises to the challenge. At Playland, Bowers opts not for trendier pizza styles, but for his custom sourdough crust, which he piles with an array of gorgeous toppings, some traditional, some not so traditional (local honey, zucchini, kale), to create the perfectly blistered, cheesy slice. Order from the House Pizza section of the menu for Bowers’ curated specialties. Our current fave: the Pandemic Bread, a 13-inch pizza with semi-dry mozzarella, pecorino cheese, olive oil, rosemary, and sea salt.

Steve McHugh, Cured, Landrace
One of San Antonio’s most celebrated chefs, Steve McHugh, a James Beard Award finalist, is perhaps best known locally for the farmhouse fare he crafts at Cured restaurant at the Pearl. (It doesn’t take much; one visit and you’ll realize it’s the cure-all for humdrum restaurants.) But ever the innovator, McHugh wasn’t satisfied with his Cured culinary triumph alone, so local McHugh fanatics can now also dine on his exquisite wood-fired dishes at Landrace, the elegant signature restaurant of the newly opened Thompson San Antonio hotel downtown.

Nicola Blaque.

Chef Nicola Blaque
Photo by Jason Risner
Nicola Blaque.
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Movie Review

Acting generations come together for awkward family drama Sam & Kate

Alex Bentley
Nov 15, 2022 | 1:09 pm
Acting generations come together for awkward family drama Sam & Kate
Photo courtesy of Vertical Entertainment

Jake Hoffman, Schuyler Fisk, and Sissy Spacek in Sam & Kate.

Dustin Hoffman and Sissy Spacek are two of the most notable actors to ever appear in films, with each winning at least one Academy Award alongside multiple other Oscar nominations. Each has a child – Dustin’s son Jake Hoffman and Spacek’s daughter Schuyler Fisk – who has followed in their parent’s footsteps in the acting profession, although neither has achieved similar success despite respectable careers.

The new film Sam & Kate brings together the two generations in an ill-fated attempt at capitalizing on show biz legacies. Sam (Jake Hoffman) has come back home to live with and take care of his father, Bill (Dustin Hoffman), who is in somewhat ill-health. Sam, who calls his dad Bill instead of Dad, temporarily works at a chocolate factory with his friend Ron (Henry Thomas).

Sam also develops a crush on Kate (Schuyler Fisk), a woman his age who works at a bookstore. A chance encounter with Kate and her mom, Tina (Spacek), at a restaurant brings them all together, and the two would-be couples start a tentative flirtation. But each person has their own set of issues that threaten to prevent a romance before it even starts.

Written and directed by first-time feature filmmaker Darren Le Gallo, the film features a lot of awkwardness, and not in a good way. It’s clear that both Bill and Tina are supposed to be different types of misanthropes, and that Sam and Kate essentially have to try to make up for their respective parent’s quirky ways. But Bill and Tina’s issues are only lightly explored, never becoming all that interesting.

Worse is the coupling of Sam and Kate. Sam is far from the smoothest flirter in the world, and every attempt he makes at wooing Kate is so cringy that it’s painful. The combination of Le Gallo’s basic dialogue and Jake Hoffman’s less-than-stellar acting defuses any romantic potential, as none of it is cute or endearing. It is said at one point that Kate is way out of Sam’s league, and the film does nothing to dispel that notion.

It’s almost like Le Gallo – who’s married to Amy Adams, an executive producer on the film – had the idea of putting both pairs of parent and child together in a film, and couldn’t figure out what to do from there. The film is competently made, but the story is never involving or convincing in the slightest. The characters merely exist without a compelling reason for telling their stories.

Each of the actors does what they can with the material, with varying degrees of success. Neither Dustin Hoffman or Spacek delivers an Oscar-quality performance, but that seems to have more to do with the filmmaking than them. Fisk has the best role in the film, which isn’t saying much, but she maintains her appeal throughout.

In naming the film Sam & Kate instead of Bill & Tina, Le Gallo seems to have been trying to pass the baton from one generation to the next, but he forgot to come up with a good story in the process. Both the Oscar-winning actors and their progeny deserved a better showcase.

---

Sam & Kate is now playing in select theaters; it will be available on-demand at home starting November 18.

Jake Hoffman, Schuyler Fisk, and Sissy Spacek in Sam & Kate

Photo courtesy of Vertical Entertainment

Jake Hoffman, Schuyler Fisk, and Sissy Spacek in Sam & Kate.

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Give It A Spin

Wheel of Fortune Live spins into San Antonio with puzzles, prizes, and celebrity host

Brianna Caleri
Nov 15, 2022 | 10:30 am
Participants on Wheel of Fortune Live.
Wheel of Fortune Live/Instagram

San Antonians will get a chance to spin the wheel, solve puzzles, and win big prizes.

We’re all subject to the wheel of fortune, but not all get to watch it turn onstage. San Antonians are the lucky ones on January 26, 2023, when “Wheel of Fortune Live” comes to the Tobin Center. The “theatrical experience” is not exactly the same as the long-running game show — since it’s not broadcast — but there are still opportunities to win big prizes.

The Sony Pictures Television-backed stage show is the only official experience outside of the filmed show, and it’s traveling across the country to make sure everyone gets a chance to see it. Apart from the two-night stop in Alamo City, the tour will also stop in Cedar Park near Austin on January 25, Grand Prairie near Dallas on January 24, and Houston on January 27.

Although hosts Pat Sajak and Vanna White, arguably even more iconic than the wheel that serves as the main game mechanic, are sitting this one out, there will be new celebrities carrying the torch.

Antiques Roadshow host Mark L. Walberg and singer Clay Aiken will split hosting duties depending on the date, and it is yet undecided who will host at any of the four Texas shows, all in 2023. The wheel, of course, will be there — or at least a replica. Audience members will be invited to compete for prizes including $10,000 in cash and trips abroad.

Wheel of Fortune (referring to a metaphor hundreds of years old, which compares fate to a wheel that ensures someone will not always be up or down) has been on air since 1975, now encompassing a catalog of several thousands of episodes. Amazingly, the show changes very little from episode to episode, but has kept viewers entertained with endless puzzles. Some younger viewers may vaguely recognize the show or newly engage with it, especially thanks to a new celebrity variation, which has cultural icons like Snoop Dogg making questionable guesses like “baking onions.”

Three contestants face a series of crossword-like word puzzles, which they need to solve by guessing letters as allowed by a buying system. For each turn, they spin the wheel of fortune, which randomly lands on a dollar amount, prize, or penalty. “I’d like to buy a vowel,” is a seemingly odd and recognizable phrase from this unique game, which turns the resource management of board games into actual stakes, as the players spend winnings they hope to walk away with at the end of the show.

Unlike games like Jeopardy! and Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?, this game is especially audience-participant friendly, as it doesn’t require any special knowledge past being a quick thinker, and occasionally knowing common English phrases.

Presale for “Wheel of Fortune Live” ($34.50) at the Tobin Theater is open now. General sales open on November 18 at 10 am. Visit wheeloffortunelive.com to see all dates. Order online, visit the box office in person (100 Auditorium Circle), or call (210) 223-8624.

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Super Bien

San Antonio airport lands new Tex-Mex restaurant from celebrated chef

Hannah J. Frías
Nov 15, 2022 | 8:45 am
Johnny Hernandez, chef, La Fruteria, Mexican restaurant, February 2013
Johnny Hernandez/Facebook

Chef Johnny Hernandez (La Gloria, El Machito, and The Frutería) opens a new restaurant at the San Antonio International Airport on November 15.

No news is good news, but some news is Super Bien, which is also the name of a new concept from chef Johnny Hernandez, opening at the San Antonio International Airport (SAT) on Tuesday, November 15.

A partnership with global restaurateur HMSHost, the new outpost is the third SAT restaurant from Hernandez, who has been feeding hungry airport passengers at La Gloria and The Frutería since 2013.

The spot is a welcome addition to the busy terminal and will feature Tex-Mex favorites from the chef's San Antonio childhood, such as his signature crispy taco bowls, breakfast tacos, and coffee from Vera Cruz, Mexico. Mexican beers, margaritas, and aguas frescas will be on hand to quench that travel thirst.

Local artist Claudio Aguillon will adorn the restaurant with a colorful mural celebrating Día de los Muertos, which Aguillon will paint during the restaurant's grand opening celebration.

The celebration kicks off at 1:30 pm on Tuesday, November 15, with a piñata breaking and food and beverage samples from the airport's newest restaurant.

Jesus H. Saenz, Jr., director of airports at San Antonio Airport System, will attend the event, along with Derryl Benton, executive vice president at HMSHost, and chef Hernandez.

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