MEET THE TASTEMAKERS
San Antonio's top 8 pastry chefs are the icing on the cake
Could this be the year that San Antonio’s pastry artisans finally get their standing ovation? Certainly, their work has been overlooked for too long by a culinary world that insists that throwing a steak on a grill takes more finesse than working with leavened dough.
We cry horsefeathers. The pastry arts involve science, art, and no small amount of patience. More than anything coming out of a kitchen, desserts are what make a truly memorable meal. That’s why we celebrate flour-dusted warriors each year by giving out the CultureMap Tastemaker Award for Pastry Chef of the Year.
This year, our nominee list is longer than ever. Peek into their genius by reading below. Then join us on April 4 as we crown this year’s victor at a lavish party at Briscoe Museum. A few tickets are still up for grabs online.
Alba Ayala and Jessica Philpot, Extra Fine
One could never malign this Monte Vista’s shop’s sweets. The cinnamon roll here indeed flattens any nostalgia one might have for a certain national chain. But Ayala’s and Philpot’s savory pastries raise the bar even higher. Japanese milk bread relieves all the denseness of traditional klobásníky; The pesto should make most pizza joints hang their head in shame.
Alessia Benavides, Chocolatl
Here’s the bad news. Chocolatl is an online-only venture. The wait for Benavides’ artful bon bons can feel excruciating. But that anticipation is earned each time a box is opened. Though the flavors are always approachable, each bite expands the possibilities of what chocolate can be. Whether evoking the tropics with passionfruit and guava, or summer camp with a s’mores, her treats are always transporting.
Anne Ng and Jeremy Mandrell, Bakery Lorraine
There are few sweeter spots for a meet-cute. Ng and Mandrell met at Thomas Keller’s fabled Bouchon Bakery before settling in San Antonio, a connection that forever changed the city’s pastry arts. From the early days running a farmers market stand to their current gig running a mini empire, the pair prove that big names on a resumé are less important than the big name one makes at home.
Elise Russ, Clementine
Clementine’s menu currently boasts a crunch bar, a cheesecake, a strawberry shortcake, and a crème brûlée, desserts that home bakers have been making for generations. That’s how Russ gets you. While it's clear that she understands desserts should be fundamentally pleasurable, she never lets familiarity spoil the surprise. Her desserts always ask “what else,” discovering nuance in timeworn recipes through unexpected texture and global flavors.
Grecia Ramos, Baked
Like her husband, 2M Smokehouse pitmaster Esaul Ramos, Grecia Ramos seems to have a preternatural ability to find the perfect texture in everything she does. Baked’s social media feeds obsess over lamination, showcasing pastry cross sections that could double as a bee hive. Yes, those flaky layers will likely shower your plate and your lap. A croissant hasn’t done its job if you don’t have to shake it off.
Jenn Riesman, Rooster Crow Bakery
One of San Antonio’s foremost journeywomen, Reisman paid her dues at luxury properties like Omni La Mansion, Hotel Emma, and Fairmont Hotel. Now with her Shavano Park bakery, she gets to bring all the flowers home. The move gave her the space to express her trademark humor (her valentine’s cookies were piped with “daddy” and “slut”) without abdicating her throne as San Antonio’s undisputed queen of pies.
José and David Cáceres, La Panadería
When La Panadería opened in 2014, food media still upheld European baking traditions as the standard. With a deep devotion to their Mexican heritage, the brothers Cácares changed the paradigm. Fusing French, Italian, and American techniques with traditional pan, the siblings helped open the doors for an expanded appreciation of what’s worthy of a headline.
Tina Kent, Bread Box
On most days this hard working entrepreneur can be spied on through the shop window, carefully piping flowers, bows, and dots. Often, discussions of baking center on the science that gives cakes a tender crumb or cookies a snap. Kent’s breathtaking confections argue that the painter’s smock is just as important as the lab coat.