COMING ATTRACTIONS
North San Antonio sows heartfelt new spot for Central Mexican cuisine
It wasn’t too long ago in San Antonio that Tex-Mex was simply called “Mexican food” — a designation that not only flattened homegrown Texas fare but ignored the diverse cooking traditions of Mexico. Now a crew of emerging local chefs are changing the conversation with fresh takes on the regional dishes that have made the country’s foodways internationally lauded.
Maricela Rangel Trujillo is hoping to put Central Mexican cuisine on Alamo City’s ever-expanding culinary map. Her new restaurant Maíz, opening on March 6 at 923 N. Loop 1604, is a tribute to her native Zacatecas and its surrounding villages.
Tradition is at the heart of the new concept. Trujillo developed a passion for food from a young age, immersed in her mother’s kitchen and her father’s bakery. Many of the recipes used at Maíz were inspired by her grandmother’s signature dishes dating back to the '50s.
Specialties include tampiqueña served with charro beans and nopales, pork served in salsa verde, and enchiladas smothered in a rich guajillo sauce. Mexican gastronomic fluidity is reflected in a couple of taco plates rooted in Northern Mexican (discada) and Pueblan (al pastor) heritage.
For breakfast, Maíz offers various takes on chilaquiles and omelets. One innovative dish combines the two — stuffing the saucy fried tortillas in the eggy folds. If guests want to pair it with a michelada, they are welcome to bring booze from home.
"The traditional recipes of my grandmother have been preserved for three generations," says Chef Maricela via a release. "I can't wait to share them in San Antonio, the city that has become my new home."
Following the March 6 opening, Maíz will be open 8 am to 9 pm Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays; 8 am to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, and 8 am to 8 pm on Sundays.