San Antonio's dining scene is no longer divided by elitist ideas — a fact exemplified by CultureMap's 10 nominees for the 2025 Tastemaker Award for Chef of the Year. Some contenders make beautifully plated dishes, and others make burgers. But each has a talent that transcends preconceptions of high and low.
Need further proof? Read below to see each chef's singular approach to food before our April 10 Tastemaker Awards ceremony and tasting event at Briscoe Museum. We'll honor the city's food and beverage all-stars while savoring bites from some of Alamo City's best restaurants (here's a sneak peek of the delicious menu). A few tickets are still available, but it's selling out quickly.
Before the big day, catch up on all the Tastemaker nominees through our special editorial series and support local businesses as much as possible. This year's slate of culinary greats should get you started.
Without further ado, here are the nominees for Chef of the Year:
Berty Richter,Ladino
Richter first came to our attention through an Austin food truck serving velvety hummus. Since then, his star has only brightened. His superlative hummus is still on the menu at Pearl's effortless Ladino, joined now by contemporary takes on ancient Mediterranean fare. Try the shishbarak, beef and lamb dumplings anchored by smoked chilis.
Christopher Cullum, Cullum's Attaboy
While some of his contemporaries jostle to prove their originality, Cullum's cuisine is firmly rooted in nostalgia. At Attaboy, he riffs on potato donuts, floating island desserts, and breakfast sandwiches that would make any New York City bodega owner weep. Still, the tour de force is a French omelet capped with caviar. Simplicity has never been more dazzling.
David Kirkland and Ernest Servantes, Burnt Bean Co.
The two pitmasters behind this red-hot Seguin joint know a few things about smoked meats, having stomped the also-rans on the Texas barbecue circuit separately. The pair's fall-apart brisket, coated in a peppery bark, is a testament to the power of joining forces. Don't skip the Tex-Mex and Southern sides; they have all the magic of sausage and ribs.
Emil Oliva, Leche de Tigre
Few local chefs have had as meteoric of a rise as Oliva, who was recently named a James Beard Award finalist. Then again, few San Antonio dishes are as electric as his ceviche Nikkei spiked with tamarind ponzu and aji limo. Through dizzyingly tasty renditions of classic Peruvian fare like lomo saltado and chaufa, the Southtown chef shows the city the possibilities of Latin cuisine.
Francisco Estrada and Lizzeth Martinez, Naco Mexican Eatery
If breakfast is the most important meal of the day, why is it so often an afterthought? This husband-and-wife duo bucks that trend with Mexico City chilaquiles that are practically galvanic. The pair's zippy green sauce might take the crown in a city of salsas. Dousing steak asada, it's a near miracle.
Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin, Best Quality Daughter
In some ways, Dobbertin's Pearl restaurant is an immersive installation. From the wallpaper to the unique name to a menu that riffs on undervalued food, every element is infused with the identity of Asian-American women. The chef's particular gift is in making an intellectual endeavor equally visceral. Her Korean corn cheese spring rolls are a pleasure that needs no explanation.
John Russ, Clementine
Russ earned his chops in the luxury sector, beginning his culinary career at the Ritz Carlton and the tony Capella Hotel Group. Still, the neighborhood restaurants he remembers from his New Orleans youth more fully defined his approach to dining. Dishes like fresh berries paired with pickled ramps and creamy stracciatella show his finesse with careful sourcing and a global palate. They still have the ease of a Sunday family supper.
Leo Davila
Davila's signature dish at the recently shuttered Stixs & Stone, a Big Red & barbacoa taco flight, did something remarkable. Though the chef incorporated chef-y touches like pecan pesto and pickled watermelon rind to the dish, it proved the workaday flavors of San Antonio were as crucial as haute cuisine. Gatekeeping never serves gastronomy well. This chef knocked down the barriers with a soda-infused tortilla. We look forward to seeing his future work at the St. Anthony Hotel.
Paul Petersen, Bar Loretta
Chefs are frequently called "rock stars," but few have the bona fides to live up to the name. Petersen actually spent time as a heavy hitting drummer. Today, he reserves that thunder for making expressive food that riffs off traditional forms while leaving plenty of room for improvisation. His current menu includes some pretty metal ideas, from a harvest pork chop with cranberry mostarda to foie gras buñuelos.
Stefan Bowers, Pumpers
Bowers was known around town for many years among the top tier of fine dining chefs. While many were reeling from the global pandemic, he let loose, creating one of San Antonio's wildest concepts. The brand voice is edgy, the social media is a riot, and the vibe is more punk than Max's Kansas City. More importantly, the burgers, hot dogs, and late-night waffles eat like a power ballad.
The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is brought to you by The Yuengling Company, Jim Beam Black, Hornitos, Reyka Vodka, H-E-B, PicMe Events, and more to be announced soon. A portion of the proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, Culinaria.
