Something to crow about

Upscale brasserie with a Texas twist roosts in the Dominion neighborhood

Upscale brasserie with Texas twist roosts in the Dominion neighborhood

Tardif's American Brasserie San Antonio
A metal rooster greets visitors to Tardif's American Brasserie. Courtesy Photo

A new French eatery will soon add some ooh la la to the Dominion neighborhood when it opens this fall. Flanked by a massive metal rooster, lovingly nicknamed Rupert by the staff, Tardif’s American Brasserie will greet its first visitors at 23310 W. I-10, suite 101 on Friday, October 15.

According to a restaurant rep, the venture is the brainchild of French-Mexican chef Jean Tardif, who received classical training at the esteemed Le Cordon in Bleu in Paris. Previously, Tardif was the proprietor of two Mexico City restaurants — La Taberna del Chanclas and El Chanclas.

The menu will reflect that training, with continental favorites given an approachable Texas twist. The idea is to offer elevated dining without the starched white tablecloths of haute cuisine.

Though it may be subject to a few tweaks, the draft menu focuses on comfort fare and luxury ingredients. Starters include a humble tomato confit tart with goat cheese and steak tartare plated over grilled bone marrow and soufflé potatoes. There is also an opulent foie gras Maison — house-made pâté brightened with a dab of fig chutney and a port reduction.

The entrées are an even heartier affair, starting with a hefty 18-ounce Black Angus rib-eye. Duck Magret — the breast of a moulard duck raised for foie gras — is confettied with locally grown pears and apples and a tangle of caramelized onions. And pan-seared red snapper, served with asparagus, is lavished with a tangy beurre blanc.

With such substantial mains, Tardif keeps his dessert menu simple with tarts, olive oil cake, mousses, and crème brûlée. The star of the show, however, is one of San Antonio’s most beloved sweets. Here, the chef ups the ante, presenting a decadent peanut butter flan with creamy caramel.

Tardif’s American Brasserie is the latest in a wave of Gallic restaurants that have graced Alamo City in recent years. Most recently, the Southerleigh Hospitality Group opened Pearl hot spot Brasserie Mon Chou Chou in October. And 2019 saw the debuts of Bistr09 in Alamo Heights and Julia’s Bistro & Bar in Beacon Hill.

Tardif is excited to be a part of the boom.

“The culinary world of San Antonio is growing up,” Tardif tells CultureMap via statement, “and I am so pleased to become a part of the growth while also bringing my family traditions to the area.”